Let’s talk Proenza. In all of my life, this is the first time that I have ever seen a fashion show from Proenza Schouler. You may think ‘who cares’ but the bizarre part about that statement is that Proenza has been around for a long time. I am always interested in reviewing a collection from a brand that I know nothing about because I don’t have any of their previous seasons to distract me. Of course I could go back in time and watch a few of Proenza’s shows, but I don’t want to.
Firstly, now that I have come to terms with the fact that Proenza has been around for a long time, I question the artistic space in which their fashion show was held. We all like to see progression in people and brand’s life, and I wonder why the show felt so ‘local’? I know they have money if they were able to book Bella, Anok and Binx for one show. Ever since Victoria’s Secret rose to prominence with their over-the-top shows, other designers have followed suit. If you think about Chanel’s beach theme and their airport theme, as well as the Versace 2020 SS show, it appears as though bigger is better. I’m not sure how competitive they’re being by having a show so intimate.
Secondly, I like to access the soundtrack. Everything about a show is supposed to compliment the collection. I’m quite a lively person, so I enjoy soundtracks with some power to it. On the contrary, the Proenza show used a mini orchestra to go hand-in-and with the collection. I liked it. Often times, designers can get away with suboptimal collections if the soundtrack is good. Think about music for a second. How many times have you heard a beat and immediately liked the song without hearing the lyrics? Soundtracks work the same way in fashion. I was able to focus on the collection and for that I am grateful.
Having known nothing about Proenza prior to their FW 22 collection, I’m not sure if I would class this as one of my favourites from New York. Potentially because I feel as thought the styles don’t quite match the commercialism of what young adults are wearing these days. On the other hand, I note that these designs are what a designer would like to put on the runway, however, the purpose of a business is to make money. I have to assume that they’re ability to attract repeat customers is very strong.
The collection seemed to be created for women in their mid-30s who may or may not have a child depending on the look that they wear. If you access the look worn by Cara Taylor for one moment, can you tell me which young woman in today’s western society would wear it?
I think this look is a little too reserved for the average western girl. But I’ll tell you who I think this would be great for. Girls who dress modestly either due to their personal preferences or their beliefs. I believe that it is reserved enough to class as modest, but still gives that 21st Century independence that the younger generations are known for.
With regards to the footwear, I liked the creativity behind the designs. I can totally see this being redesigned in black with gold detailing in a Schiaparreli collection. I didn’t see much jewellery within this collection, but that is okay. Many of us tend to buy jewellery from local stores, I don’t think that’s a huge gripe of mine.
Finally, the bags! I thought the bags were okay. They weren’t particularly re-imaginative or ground-breaking. The FW22 bags were just there to complete the collection in my opinion. They’re bags that have been wiped on the high-street for many years over.
Overall this was a solid collection and I look forward to the SS23 collection. I thought the clothes themselves was nice, though I can’t see myself wearing it. I think the show could’ve been bigger than it was, but Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had an excellent model lineup. From an inclusion perspective, it was great to see and certainly something that I encourage.
Sama is the Editor in Chief of SSEDITORIAL Magazine. She currently oversees the creative direction of the magazine after ending her role as Runway Director to develop the SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY division. When Sama is not leading the team. She likes to contribute, primarily to the high fashion section of the magazine.