September 22nd marked the debut of Sabato De Sarno’s era at Gucci. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection was the first show under the brand’s latest Creative Director. This was after Alessandro Michele’s departure in late 2022 left the future direction of the fashion house uncertain. However, this Milan Fashion Week answered all our questions; this is Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci.
De Sarno intended for his show debut to take place on the streets of Milan. However, the rain saw the show return to the very place where Alessandro Michele held his shows, the brand’s headquarters. But that was about the only similarity sound between De Sarno’s Gucci and that of his predecessor.
Gucci’s Quiet Luxury
What was once a brand rooted in eccentricity and maximalism appeared to be focusing instead on basics. A decision that felt closely rooted in the internet’s obsession with ‘quiet luxury’ and a capsule wardrobe. Two ideas that I would never have previously associated with the brand. At this present moment, it is unclear whether this collection comes as a knee-jerk reaction to the current minimalist trend or whether this is the new Gucci.
The simplistic collection focused heavily on silhouettes, many rigidly structured and absent of any free-flowing movement. One of which felt particularly in tune with Gucci’s eccentric, almost retro feel of previous years. Yet felt very new and individual to De Sarno’s creative direction. This is noticeable thanks to the various A-line mini dresses that took to the catwalk. These looks were a personal highlight of mine as they felt like the perfect way to showcase ‘Gucci does minimalism’.
Mini Skirt and Gucci Loafers
Another favourite of Spring/Summer was Look 23, a mini skirt and jacket paired with some platform green loafers. This look felt like a youthful play on vintage Chanel, which, while always popular, is having a moment in the aftermath of Barbie that focussed heavily on styling through accessories. The large gold earring that asymmetrically adorned the model, paired with the equally high and vibrant platform loafers, perfectly highlighted the way that maximalist brands such as this one can successfully participate in minimalist fashion.
While much of the collection was black, white, and burgundy, we saw various injections of a vibrant lime green infiltrating the muted autumnal colour palette, which felt like either a nod to the old Gucci or a look into the future. I am not alone in speculating that this collection could serve as a well-timed minimal base that De Sarno looks to build onto in the future, but only time will tell.
What is certain is that this collection set the stage for De Sarno’s Gucci perfectly. It felt like a clean slate. Whether this is his permanent direction or merely a steppingstone it perfectly distinguished De Sarno’s collection from Alessandro’s whilst tapping into the cultural shift away from maximalism. The question of whether this simplicity will continue or if this collection marked a refresh ahead of De Sarno’s future is unknown, that is, until next season.
Amelia Gregory is Junior Fashion Lead for SSEDITORIAL. She writes on everything from sustainability to runway. She is our lead contributor for red carpet reviews, so keep an eye out for her latest 'Best Dressed' list. Find her on Instagram: @milly_gregory