Fashion week kicked off in August with Sweden’s most prominent designers showcasing their latest spring collections during Copenhagen Fashion Week. From veterans to newcomers, I will summarise some of the best styles and briefly review what I’ve seen so far!
Helmstedt
Embodying the season of spring, Helmstedt understood the assignment. Taking a bold and creative approach to spring fashion, it is clear that nature was a source of inspiration. From bold prints and tie-dye to mushroom motifs and creepy crawly imagery, Helmstedt takes you on a trail through the meadows of spring down to the enchanted woods.
Inclusivity is essential for Emilie Helmstedt (the designer) this year. Models of varying sizes and shapes walked the catwalk, and children accompanied some of the models. The models were wrapped in vines with plant stalks through their headpieces. The sleeves of the garments personified plant life, which is a nod towards sustainability and our global attitude towards that environment. The pieces themselves include the classic spring-summer range. This collection focused on the design rather than the construction, which has been done well.
Holzweiler
Holzweiler is very much giving draping and texture this season. Their collection features a lot of gatherings, pleating and ruching mixed in with some elements of macrame, cording and fringing. There is a hint of utility as the designer has explained that parachuting was the muse for this collection.
Harnesses created out of drawstrings and open-knit sweaters added to the mid-air fantasy Holzweiler created. Sheer, lightweight fabrics and rounded silhouettes offset the minimal and more practical everyday looks that Holzweiler has to offer. The neutral colour palette accompanied by pops of neon colour means that it is wearable for everyone. The garments quickly showed off the detailing and movement in the fabric. Holzweiler delivered a whimsical yet sustainable men’s and womenswear collection for spring.
Baum und Pferdgarten
This year, Baum und Pferdgarten intended to take women’s staple pieces and rework them for today’s modern girl. They have achieved this by using classic tailoring and workwear attire, giving an original twist to the garments.
The shirts in the collection were ruched and draped over the body, whilst blazers and waistcoats were layered with outerwear. Pops of colour were shown with a calm tone and neutral palette. Not only colour blocking but fabric blocking was used. Various prints are presented in line with Baum und Pferdgarten’s signature style.
Ranra
Introducing vibrant pastels and earthy tones, Ranra explores the androgynous side of menswear fashion for spring 2023. The colours were achieved by natural plant-based dyes giving that washed-out look. With a lot of layering in each outfit, the clothing is very loose-fitting and comfortable, making it wearable daily.
Raincoats, bomber jackets and windbreakers are a running element throughout the collection. Moreover, hints of 80s fashion made an appearance. Both women and men walk down the catwalk, emphasising the brand’s versatility. Ranra’s exhibition is at the forefront of functionality and sustainability that brands should follow today.
Stine Goya
Daring prints and electric colours make Stine Goya’s spring 2023 collection a must-have this season. Stine lets the colour palette do all the talking as her looks are kept simple and clean. She added a dust of ruching and pleating where possible to spice the collection up. This relates to her theme well as the narrative is ‘the most powerful messages are found in the softest of whispers’. Stine proves you do not need intricate detail and maximalist styling to create a phenomenal collection.
Using sparkle and beading also adds another element to the display without being over the top. The different variations of print, from floral to tie-dye and even geometric, speak to the different types of women in our generation. She emphasises the need for women’s empowerment in this collection, as feminism still has a long way to go.
Saks Potts
What I love most about Saks Potts’ spring 2023 collection is how wearable the pieces are. Each piece is easy to include in your wardrobe, refreshing your closet for spring/summer. There are a lot of different textures, such as fringing, sequins and leather, in combination with sheer fabrics and metallic, adding dimension to the garments. I liked Saks Potts choice to layer the swimwear underneath outfits and juxtaposed with shirting materials to describe the effortless hard-working woman.
Y2K style was present in the baggy cargo and low-rise skirts, which is still a popular trend going forward. The Crown Princess of Denmark, Mary, inspired the collection. In the early 2000s, Mary lived an ordinary working girl life, mixing her minimal closet staples with her bohemian personality. Saks Potts hit the nail with their take on this concept.
