Fashion week kicked off in August with Sweden’s biggest designers showcasing their latest spring collections in Copenhagen. From veterans to newcomers, I’m going to summarise some of the best collections and give a quick review on what I’ve seen so far!
Helmstedt
Embodying the season of spring, Helmstedt understood the assignment. Taking a bold and creative approach to spring fashion, it is clear that nature was a source of inspiration. From bold prints and tie-dye to mushroom motifs and creepy crawly imagery, Helmstedt takes you on a trail through the meadows of spring down to the enchanted woods.
Helmstedt (2023) pic.twitter.com/EwoWDspRxs
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
Inclusivity seems to be important for the designer this year. Models of varying sizes and shapes walked the catwalk, as well as children who accompanied some of the models. The models were wrapped in vines with plant stalks through their headpieces. The sleeves of the garments personified plant life, which is a nod towards sustainability and our global attitude towards that environment. The pieces themselves include the classic spring-summer range. This collection focused on the design rather than the construction which has been done well.
Holzweiler
Holzweiler is very much giving draping and texture this season. Their collection features a lot of gatherings, pleating and ruching mixed in with some elements of macrame, cording and fringing. There is a hint of utility as the designer has explained that parachuting was the muse for this collection.
Holzweiler (2023) pic.twitter.com/eXulOt4R1B
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
Harnesses created out of drawstrings and open knit sweaters added to the mid-air fantasy Holzweiler created. Sheer lightweight fabrics and rounded silhouettes offset the minimal and more practical everyday looks that Holzweiler has to offer. The neutral colour palette accompanied by pops of neon colour means that it is wearable for everyone. The garments easily showed off the detailing and movement in the fabric. Holzweiler delivered a whimsical yet sustainable men’s and womenswear collection for Spring.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Baum und Pferdgarten’s intention this year was to take women’s staple pieces and rework them for the modern girl today. They have achieved this by using classic tailoring and workwear attire, giving an original twist to the garments.
Baum und Pferdgarten (2023) pic.twitter.com/YUVeSbe4MP
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
The shirts in the collection were ruched and draped over the body, whilst blazers and waistcoats were layered with outerwear. Pops of colour was shown with the mix of a cool tone neutral palette. Not only colour blocking, but fabric blocking was used. A variety of prints are presented in line with Baum und Pferdgarten’s signature style.
Ranra
Introducing vibrant pastels and earthy tones, Ranra explore the androgynous side of menswear fashion for spring 2023. The colours were achieved by natural plant-based dyes giving that washed out look. With a high amount of layering in each look, the clothing is very loose-fitting and comfortable, making it wearable for every day.
Ranra (2023) pic.twitter.com/oOsthN6Qah
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
Raincoats, bomber jackets and windbreakers seem to be a running element throughout the collection. Moreover, hints of 80s fashion made an appearance. Both women and men walk down the catwalk, emphasising the versatility of the brand. Ranra’s collection is at the forefront of functionality and sustainability that brands should follow today.
Stine Goya
Stine Goya (2023) pic.twitter.com/C0w4rsuF6i
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
Daring prints and electric colours are what make Stine Goya’s Spring 2023 collection a must-have this season. She lets the colour palette do all the talking as her looks are kept simple and clean. To spice the collection up, she added a dust of ruching and pleating where possible. This relates to her theme well as the narrative is ‘the most powerful messages are found in the softest of whispers’. Stine proves you do not need intricate detail and maximalist styling to create a phenomenal collection. The use of sparkle and beading also adds another element to the collection without being over the top. The different variations of print from floral to tie-dye and even geometric speak to the different types of women in our generation. She emphasises the need for women’s empowerment in this collection as feminism still has a long way to go.
Saks Potts
Saks Potts (2023) pic.twitter.com/GnmRFKvw0z
— SSEDITORIAL RUNWAY (@sseditorialmag) November 5, 2022
What I love most about Saks Potts’ Spring 2023 collection is how wearable the pieces are. Each piece is easy to include in your wardrobe, refreshing your closet for spring/summer. There are a lot of different textures such as fringing, sequins and leather in combination with sheer fabrics and metallic, adding dimension to the garments. I liked that the swimwear was layered underneath outfits, which juxtaposed with shirting fabrics to describe the effortless hard-working woman. Y2K style was present in the baggy cargos and low-rise skirts, which is still a popular trend going forward. The collection was inspired by the Crown Princess of Denmark, Mary, in the early 2000s who lived an ordinary working girl life, mixing her minimal closet staples with her bohemian personality. Saks Potts hit the nail on the head with their take on this concept.
