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Harris Reed Turned All the World Into His Stage
The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection by Harris Reed had pageantry at its core. Harris Reed built around the famous Shakespeare quote ‘All the world’s a stage’. None other than Florence Pugh opened the theatrical collection. The Midsommar, Little Women and Don’t Worry Darling star appeared at Tate Modern wearing a corseted sequin gown with one of Reed’s signature circular headpieces to share some of his words. Pugh read:
“Clothing has a transformative power, whether for an actor or simply a performer on the stage of life. The art of dressing up allows us to express who we truly are, creating a safe space to inhabit in a sometimes-judgmental world. Our costumes can change who we want to be seen as and who we are destined to be. I invite you to embrace the lamé and sequins of life, because ‘All the World’s A Stage’”.
The Collection
The collection oozed drama: the ten black and gold looks demanded attention, and we happily gave it to them. Harris Reed continues to redefine fashion through his use of artistic shapes and exaggerated silhouettes that we cannot find elsewhere. However, the theatrical influence did not end in the design process. The looks scream Hollywood A-lister or could appear as an elaborate costume in a blockbuster film. But, Harris Reed went beyond representing the dramatic arts and actually incorporated a bit of the theatre into the designs. Reed took to Instagram to share a “cheeky little fun fact” with his followers. He declared that “all gold lamé in this collection came from old theatre curtains.”
Harris Reed and Gender Fluidity
The fluidity of the designs themselves was inspired by Henry Moore’s sculptures as rounded silhouettes were favoured throughout the collection. The smooth lines and abstract shapes formed clothes that were truly sculptural themselves. But fluidity was not only prioritised through the shapes of the collection. Reed’s gender-fluid designs also played with the notions of ‘masculinity’ and ‘femininity’, alongside the theme of theatrics and pageantry. This makes the centrality of William Shakespeare’s As You Like It even more prominent. As the play famously explores the idea of gender, particularly through costume.
Reed has been recognised at the forefront of the gender-fluidity movement that is being celebrated by fashion at the moment, an award that he recognises but disputes. This collection serves to accentuate the historical explorations of ‘masculinity’ and ‘femininity’ as the roots of this movement. It highlighted that questions surrounding gender performance have been investigated for hundreds of years.
The beautiful looks that we saw at this show did not remain on the catwalk. With a star-studded front row, we saw Jodie Turner-Smith in an elegant yet experimental white lace dress worn over black trousers with one of Reed’s halo-esque headpieces to match, a look from the designer’s September 2021 demi-couture collection. We also saw Erin O’Connor in a look from this collection, a black blazer with white lace trim paired with a playful pink eyeshadow and red lip.
This show comes ahead of Reed’s debut collection as Nina Ricci’s creative director set to premiere at Paris Fashion Week on Friday 3rd March. Curiosities surrounding this collection are running high as we anticipate how these two distinct brands will integrate. All we know is that we cannot wait to see it.
