Tolu Coker FW24 Broken English: An Insight To The Diasporic Perspective

British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker stood out to me at London Fashion Week. Her exploration of English tailoring and silhouettes, infused with inspiration from West African hawkers, was eye-catching and innovative. These influences were spotted in the collection’s headpieces, explosive colours and intricately woven banana leaf bags. The eponymous label reflects Coker’s commitment to her identity and illustrates a progressive expression of the diasporic experience. Her work portrays the beauty of diversity and inclusion. Her devotion to sustainability further augments her skill as an artist, innovator and reformer.

Creating an Experience

Coker was on a two-week trip in Accra, Ghana, when the afflatus consumed her. She mused over the hawkers who spoke Pidgin English amongst one another. On their heads, large baskets inhabited by goods intended for sale and upon that the blazing sun towering over them. They weaved expertly between relentless traffic; this was their livelihood. Her mother was once one of them.

The scene was set like a West African marketplace. There were wheelbarrows, traffic cones, fruit baskets, crates of beer and ice boxes. A salon towards the back with a display of wigs and just by the beginning of the runway – a ‘Give Way’ sign held up by stacked rubber tyres.

There was lots of textural play through fabrics and silhouettes. Oversized round puffy sleeves directly contrasted with sharp, pointy collars, a colourful striped (half) tie and a short pleated skirt akin to the British school uniform. The model perches a bulbous ceramic vase against her hip – the net around the vase was decorated with beads of white and blue that complemented her tie. Ariana Grande actually wore this piece in her latest Instagram post, too.

Sunday Best

‘Sunday Best’ formed the cornerstone of this collection. With undercurrents of church-going connotations pulsating through the designs, Coker ties in refined tailoring, waist-cinching, corset-style torsos and suits. The long and sharp collar was truly an unforgettable element of the garments. Tolu Coker brings innovation, drama, and cultural homage to the table in a way that has stunted Wales Bonner’s progress due to its perilous commitment to athleisure. Tolu Coker is London’s new and brightest superstar.

Surprisingly and impressively, Coker creates such magic despite using deadstock fabrics and sustainable materials. All the headpieces were awe-inducingly stunning. A take on the British Classic, the Bowler Hat, improved significantly and stylishly by amplifying the drama. Indeed, a nod towards the hawkers sustaining loaded baskets on their heads. These lofty hats were made out of a range of materials, such as denim and taut leather. Essentially, the model’s faces were adorned with art.

Adding Flair to RTW

This ready-to-wear collection was modern and stylish. Ugg partnered with Coker this season and designed some of the most glorious heeled boots to grace their catalogue. These video vixen-style boots, as did the full-leather outfits and short skirts, brought edge and seduction to the collection.

Personally, Coker has refreshed the LFW experience. She is an exciting designer whose artistry does not just stop at the clothing. She has brought avant-garde to RTW whilst remaining commercially attractive to the average person. Every piece of item in this collection would completely elevate someone’s outfit. It is truly one-of-a-kind and nourishes me with so much desire to see what else she will do next. Clearly brimming with potential, Tolu Coker has a lot more to say.