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Unserten Is the New FW24 Gothic Masterpiece
Just as it sounds, Unserten is a brand based on Uncertainty and the consistency of change. This Tokyo-based brand explores the feeling of uncertainty and the hypocrisy of the collective human desire for stability. Unserten states, “It is often those uncertainties that are key to opening new possibilities and making the world a more diverse and welcoming place”. Founded in 2021, this ever-growing brand works as a collaborative of cultures and perspectives, consisting of multiple backgrounds and ethnicities. The brand focuses on producing elegant and avant-garde pieces that are directly menswear or unisex.
Unserten aims to successfully spread and express diversity throughout the industry and take their creativity globally. Three years into their business, they produce exquisite collections that closely represent their personal ethos. A collection that engaged my interest was their recent Fall/Winter Ready to Wear line that stormed the runway. For this reason, I am here to review said line and dive into the productions of this impressive brand.
The Unserten Aesthetic
Whether you have a deep interest in the fashion industry or just love to browse the rack, you can spot clearly that this line has a direct aesthetic and style. Its cohesive styling makes for a gothic yet ethereal collaboration. It’s hauntingly beautiful, and the runway showcases it. Usually, when gothic aesthetics appear on the runway, they are underappreciated as it is such a specific look. However, because of the formality of the styling and structures, I believe this instance reaches a wider audience.
Since I always enjoy alternative and gothic styles, I suppose I am a bit biased. However, I’m sure others understand the intelligent aspects of these creations. Bringing darkness to the catwalk is always a plus when it comes to branding, as it represents the darker features of fashion and allows the industry to thrive in all genres.
Colour and Structure
Black, Black and more Black! But who is to complain? In my opinion, Black is timeless, sleek, and one of the best colours to work with. Whether you are a colourful person or not, I’m dead sure that everyone’s wardrobe features multiple aspects of black attire. In relation to construction, it is crucial that the brand focuses on the art of structure and form since the black fabric would appear blank if not prioritised.
The structures and layering allow for an exciting set of looks, and I appreciate how easy it would’ve been to slip into a tedious repetition of black garments. This group of gothic ensembles are cohesively gorgeous with the collaboration of formal detail. Prestige formality is encapsulated through the inclusion of elongated garments, almost representing robes and royal attire. I would certainly feel like royalty if I had my hands on these garments!
Unserten and Inclusivity
Unserten works towards building a welcoming industry through its inclusive brand and production of clothing. In this collection, we see the representation of gender non-conforming garments as the looks dance between masculine and feminine. The gender barrier is blurred throughout this entire line, and a stand-out feature is the addition of skirts. This gives feminine confidence to the models strutting in them.
It is becoming more consistently common that clothing brands tend to dabble in gender-inclusive clothing featuring wider unisex lines. Despite the originality lacking in this specific field, it is still a favourable and flavourful inclusion that I specifically look for within fashion. In high fashion, brands encourage men to feel pretty in captivating clothing and in this line, specifically in a gothic sense.
Accessories and Styling
I cannot write a review about this collection without the mention of the masks! These accessories were an obvious stand-out point of the runway and an amazing attribution to the styling. These artistic skeleton masks portray animalistic features with razor teeth, creatively blending the masks into the overall aesthetic. Edginess and quirk are reiterated through the artistry of these face coverings and are a positive feature. Even if I believe it was an intelligent choice not to select all models to wear them. An array of divine gold jewellery is the choice that accompanies the eccentric garments and, in my opinion, compliments them greatly.
The inclusion of gold assists in breaking up the outfits and reiterates the luxurious feel achieved across the looks. Black and gold will always be a glamorous combination! Without the intuitive choice to layer pieces, this collection would not have succeeded as well as it has. Layering permits innovative styling and assists in further detailed looks. For example, the use of layering with jackets and coats pushes glamour and chic. With it being such a cohesive and concentrated collection, the more garments, the merrier!
Conclusion
This formation of looks reminds me of a long line of vampires in the sexiest way possible. It speaks to the alternative and gothic community, and it is always honourable to witness a line in relation to that aesthetic. This ready-to-wear line is prepared to take on the alternative quota and fulfil the need for luxury and inclusivity across the darker clientele of the industry.
This runway was a gorgeous presentation of garments and a striking attribution to modern fashion. Unserten knows what they intend to bring to the industry, and I assume nothing will be an obstacle to their ideas and production. This Tokyo-based company is one to follow definitely, and I intend to keep a close eye on this refined and solid brand.
