The Time To Pay Attention To Phoebe Philo and Her Debut Collection Is Now

The day that has been marked in fashion lovers’ calendars for months, and for some even years, has finally arrived: fashion royalty Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand has dropped its first collection. Phoebe Philo was the creative director of Chloé from 2001 to 2006 and Céline from 2008 to 2017; during this time, the British designer gained a cult following. Despite her beloved eras at both fashion houses, fans of Philo’s work have had to suffer a six-year draught since she departed from Céline.

Philo’s time at Chloé and Céline became synonymous with the minimalist chic look now being labelled ‘quiet luxury’, so there really has never been a better time for her return than now. However, the resurgence of minimalism isn’t the only reason why Philo’s return comes at the perfect time.

In recent months, the fashion industry has seen many female creative directors depart from their positions. This includes Gabriela Hearst, who left Chloé this summer, and Sarah Burton, who exited Alexander McQueen in September. These recent changes have brought to light just how few female creative directors are currently at the leading fashion houses, making Philo’s return all the more welcome.

Phoebe Philo

While Philo chose not to stage a show or do any real advertising, everyone had this collection on their radar. It’s not every day that an influential designer returns to the industry. Everyone may have marked their calendars for the first Monday in May, but this year, the last Monday in October could’ve proved just as important for fashion fans everywhere. 

Philo’s designs have been easily identifiable due to her minimalist aesthetic. Her aesthetic often features oversized fits, impeccable tailoring, clean lines and a muted colour palette. Her first collection for the eponymous brand stayed true to this look. However, Philo always injects a fun and unique element into her looks, which continues into her self-titled brand. 

The Debut Collection

The A1 collection featured the masculine tailoring I know and love from Philo. Longline coats and giant shoulders were prominent features of the collection. However, it was the trousers that took centre stage. From classic silhouettes to drop trousers and even zip-up vents, the trousers in this collection were a personal highlight.

While these minimalist pieces provided a sleek take on trousers, the Hand-Combed Embroidered Tailored Trousers were far from quiet, providing the fun and innovative look that Philo always seamlessly injects into her otherwise quiet pieces.

These may arguably be one of the less wearable pieces in the collection, which many may argue goes against Philo’s distinct style, but I disagree. These are the pieces that perfectly summarise Philo’s genius as well as her impact on the industry.

Philo’s work is rooted in minimalism, sleek and classic designs that empower the women who wear them, but also reinvention. Philo’s looks are never plain. They play with structure and design in a way that ensures that the pieces are never dull; they are constant reimaginations of clothing and design.

Potentially and more importantly, the minimalism of her work allows these pieces to be styled and not appear overly outlandish or maximalist. Philo’s work perfects balance, whether navigating the tightrope between masculinity and femininity, maximalism and minimalism, or simply the balance of an outfit’s proportions and silhouette. Phoebe Philo’s signature look is rooted in balance, and the A1 collection proves just that.