Helen Anthony springspring 2025:2025: WhenWhen glamourglamour refusesrefuses toto bebe quietquiet

The Helen Anthony Spring 2025 collection was a vibrant dedication to those across the globe facing the consequences of war. The collection was intended to represent hope and freedom, incorporating colours associated with war-torn countries.

Central to this message was the concept of choice, with each hand-embroidered design looking to symbolise the freedom of choice. The collection appears to address the topic of choice theory, empowering women and marginalised communities.

The collection was a colourful, maximalist display of expert tailoring. Many of the silhouettes felt reminiscent of the 1990s, but with a contemporary twist. They moved the looks away from the minimalism and into something far more glamorous. This came as no surprise as tailoring is central to the Helen Anthony brand, with founder Naeem Anthony coming from a tailoring and design background. The name of its brand actually honours Anthony’s great-grandmother, Helen Thomas, who was the first to support his tailoring.

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1990s maximalist evocation

There was a good mixture of oversized silhouettes, mainly in the form of suits and flowing coats, and more tailored 1990s pencil skirt suits. This combination demonstrated the brand’s expertise in this area, showing that they can truly do both. Adding to this was the brand’s inclusive nature. A variety of diverse models wore an array of genderless looks, some more fitted and others slouchier. 

Much of the collection aligned with the ‘Mob Wife Aesthetic‘ that circulated last year, from glitzy gowns to fur coats. This trend has been particularly prominent in recent points as the ‘quiet luxury‘ trend has begun to fade out and maximalism returns. With this transition in mind, the colourful display of attention-grabbing looks in this collection represented a return to opulent and lavish dressing. 

Straying from the brand’s signature tailoring, another highlight of the collection was its evening gowns. The way these shimmering dresses skimmed down and hugged the body was like the perfect slip dress was a 1990s fashion fan’s dream come true. My personal favourites were looks 5, 29 and 36. They had such beautiful movement down the runway, combined with the lights. The lights bounced off the looks, creating a shimmer that accentuated the flowing aspect of the looks.

Helen Anthony spring 2025

One of my personal highlights of the collection was the array of oversized bags. The return of the oversized bowling bag and Jane Birkin-esque slouchy styles has been a trend that I love. Seeing this transcend down the runway to such an extreme level was very exciting to me.

If I were to summarise the Helen Anthony spring 2025 show and collection in one word, I would choose glamorous. The looks were opulent and attention-grabbing, as was the setting and general atmosphere with bright lights and upbeat music, really feeding into that Hollywood approach to fashion that was so prominent in the 1990s and 2000s. It was a runway of unapologetic extravagance rooted in a powerful message.

Image credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight.