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The scene was set for the Jayne Pierson spring 2025 collection the moment we walked into London’s Andaz hotel. An intimate, candlelit room, adorned with woodland-inspired decor that cast eerie shadows, would soon see Pierson’s creations fit seamlessly into the carefully curated atmosphere of the catwalk.

As a Welsh designer, the collection, aptly named ‘Annwn,’ was inspired by the Welsh landscape and mythology and folklore. ‘Annwn’ refers to the ‘Otherworld’ in Welsh mythology, a hidden magical world inhabited by magical people and creatures. The show itself focused on the story of Rhiannon, the goddess of rebirth, the moon and fertility. It was a beautiful tribute to Pierson’s daughter Ruby-Rhiannon, who sadly passed away in 1999.

While these descriptions of Annwn may evoke a light, fairy-tale-esque connotation, Jayne Pierson’s SS25 collection was quite the opposite. Drawing on the darker, more Gothic side of mythology, something that to me felt aligned with Pierson’s history at Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.

Mythology in fashion

Flowing silhouettes emphasised the ethereal feeling of the collection. At the same time, high necklines and veils incorporated the gothic element, combining in a unique approach to dark mythology. Another contrast to the stereotypical approach to collections inspired by mythology was the use of corsetry. They appeared to draw inspiration from Pierson’s time at Vivienne Westwood, rather than the variations seen in Greek mythology. This again highlighted the gothic role in this collection, striking a contrast to usual depictions of mythology through fashion.

Pierson’s unique approach did not end there. Another prominent theme in the Annwn collection was fur, especially fur jackets. This has been a significant trend as of late and is only growing as we enter the winter months. However, it has typically appeared in a more early 2000s maximalist style. Here, the use of fur jackets felt more historic and natural than the ‘mob-wife aesthetic’ that we’ve been seeing as of late.

While the collection felt like it was transporting us back in time, the technology used was quite groundbreaking. Pierson collaborated with Arius Technology to scan Wassily Kandinsky’s “Swinging” and print it onto leather using an advanced print technology called Elegraph.

Jayne Pierson spring 2025

The show also marked the launch of Pierson’s jewellery collection, partnering with Devji Aurum on the Gwenllian line. The limited-edition collection was crafted in 24k Welsh gold, diamonds, malachite and lapis. The jewellery complemented the Welsh-inspired collection, featuring Welsh heritage motifs of triscols and Celtic knots, all personally designed by Pierson herself.

The collection and show, in combination, served as an immersive journey into the mythical world of Annwn. They depicted a darker and more Gothic approach to mythology. The collection perfectly captured the inspiration of the Welsh countryside alongside the mystical elements of the country’s folklore, all while highlighting Jayne Pierson’s dedication to circular design and sustainable practices.

Image credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight.