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September 22nd marked the debut of Sabato De Sarno’s era at Gucci. The Gucci spring 2024 collection was the first show under the brand’s latest Creative Director. This was after Alessandro Michele’s departure in late 2022 left the future direction of the fashion house uncertain. However, this Milan Fashion Week answered all our questions; this is Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci.

De Sarno intended for his show debut to occur on the streets of Milan. However, the rain forced the show to return to where Alessandro Michele typically holds his shows, the brand’s headquarters. But that was about the only similarity sound between De Sarno’s Gucci and that of his predecessor.

Gucci’s Quiet Luxury

What was once a brand rooted in eccentricity and maximalism appeared to be focusing instead on basics. A decision that felt closely rooted in the internet’s obsession with ‘quiet luxury‘ and a capsule wardrobe. Two ideas that I would never have previously associated with the brand. Currently, it is unclear whether this collection is a knee-jerk reaction to the current minimalist trend or whether it represents the new Gucci. 

The simplistic collection focused heavily on silhouettes, many of which were rigidly structured and lacked any free-flowing movement. One felt particularly in tune with Gucci’s eccentric, almost retro feel of previous years, yet very new and individual to De Sarno’s creative direction. This is noticeable thanks to the various A-line mini dresses that took to the catwalk. These looks were a personal highlight of mine as they felt like the perfect way to showcase ‘Gucci does minimalism.’

Mini Skirts and Gucci Loafers

Another favourite was Look 23, featuring a mini skirt and jacket paired with green platform loafers. This look felt like a youthful play on vintage Chanel, which, while always popular, is having a moment in the aftermath of Barbie, which focused heavily on styling through accessories. The oversized gold earrings and equally high and vibrant platform loafers perfectly highlighted how maximalist brands can successfully incorporate elements of fashion minimalism. 

Spring Colours

While much of the Gucci spring 2024 collection featured black, white, and burgundy, various injections of vibrant lime green infiltrated the muted autumnal colour palette, which felt like either a nod to the old Gucci or a glimpse into the future. This collection could serve as a well-timed, minimalist base that De Sarno looks to build upon in the future, but only time will tell.

What is certain is that this collection set the stage for De Sarno’s Gucci perfectly. It felt like a clean slate. Whether this is his permanent direction or merely a stepping stone, it perfectly distinguished De Sarno’s collection from Alessandro’s whilst tapping into the cultural shift away from maximalism.

Whether this simplicity will continue Michele’s work or mark a refresh ahead of De Sarno’s future remains to be determined, that is, until next season.

Image credits: FirstView.