Demna atat Gucci: HugeHuge shoesshoes toto fill,fill, butbut isis PrimaveraPrimavera aa stepstep forward?forward?

As a heritage house, Gucci champions Italy’s finest craftsmanship, luxury leather goods, rich materials, and a distinctive eccentricity. Demna had huge shoes to fill for Gucci 2026 Primavera. Not just due to Alessandro Michele, but also to Tom Ford, for whom he said his Pre-Fall Collection was a love letter. I love that Tom Ford is used as a reference point for Demna, given his excellent design and tenure at Gucci. I also love it when new creative directors pay homage to previous creative directors and dig into the archives. In fact, that was one of the reasons I didn’t like Demna at Balenciaga, as I felt he didn’t really go into the archives, and the brand was, at best, Vetement 2.0. And that’s not in a good way.

Demna explained what this collection was about and why he called his collection PRIMAVERA. Gucci 2026 PRIMAVERA, translated into English, means Spring, which is fitting, as it signifies new beginnings. The collection is very nostalgia-heavy, which resonates with Gen Z and younger millennials who were too young to remember Tom Ford at Gucci.

Last year. I immersed myself in understanding the gucciness of Gucci. I shared fragments of this research through La Famiqlia and Generation Gucci collections. I went to the archives in Florence, visited the Gucci factories, and witnessed the industrial power of this known it from books, but never saw it in real life.

Demna’s Debut: Gucci 2026 Primavera

The collection polarised social media. Some creators loved it and felt that Demna did a great job with the collection, and many others called it boring or a Tom Ford knock-off. Demna’s Pre-Fall 2026 and debut collection, La Famiglia, featured archetypes, and people commented that it gave a Tom Ford vibe. Both of the collections have been online. The collection marked his first runway outing for Gucci, sparking widespread anticipation about the direction he would bring to the house.

There were many comments on Instagram calling it a Shein-, Zara-, and Temu-adjacent collection, saying it was tacky and cheap-looking. Was it the most innovative collection of all time? No, but it was entertaining, and right now, Kering needs commerciality to make money. That is what a conglomerate wants: financial capital.

Primavera

In true Demna fashion, he wiped Gucci’s Instagram feed, posted about the collection, and slowly started dropping images of the collection’s vibe. Controversially, he used AI to create his images, sparking widespread debate on social media. Many creators in the industry criticised the decision because available artists are struggling to get work. Is he doing this to rage-bait industry professionals, or to save money because sales are dropping?

The show was a star-studded event. Demi Moore, Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, the original Y2K sisters, BryanBoy, a popular fashion content creator, Rina Sawayama and Alessandro Michele were the celebrities in attendance.

The show instantly felt like a party, a sexy club feel that really resonated with me as a Gen-Z’er. The archetypes drew me in, and he has kept going since his debut last September, with the archetypes that he gives to each collection. For Primavera, he had Brat, Office Siren, Brat 2.0, and The Red Carpet. The Tom Ford references throughout the collection were prevalent; it was much more minimalist, like Tom Ford, compared to Alessandro Michele’s tenure.

90s-reinvented

The opening look of a collection sets the tone. The dress was a simple, pure white jersey turtleneck mini dress that clung to the model’s figure. It was very reminiscent of Tom Ford from the 90’s. I do feel that it could have been more exciting and innovative. However, I still enjoy the look’s vibe, especially the red lips, which add a sexy element, and the smoky eye, which adds a club feel. The accessories that make the look pop: the shiny bag with the matching shoes, chef kiss. Gucci’s accessories are always in style. What I enjoyed was the makeup and the hair; it felt 1990s but with a 2020s feel.

Red carpet glamour

This look was a highlight for me. It reflects the kind of outfit I would wear if I had Gucci money. The outfit is a chocolate-brown two-piece set that exudes sexiness. It definitely has an evening-wear vibe. The look features a sheer lace turtleneck. Floral embroidery and shimmering sequins add a sensual, semi-transparent finish. Under the lights, you could really see the embellishments, and it gave it a night-out feel, which was exquisite. The skirt was a maxi skirt that matched the top, and the shoes were simple black stilettos. The bag was the highlight. At first glance, it seems simple. On closer look, the glossy top handle and signature Gucci horsebit hardware elevate it.

Rapper off duty

Demna is great at knowing what the culture is, and he did a perfect job of creating a look that resonates with Gen Z: Hip Hop Culture. In fact, rappers such as EsDeeKid and Fakemink were in attendance, including Fakemink walking the runway. The outfit is incredibly basic, consisting of a black T-shirt and shorts. The hat and Gucci loafers are the highlight. It is reminiscent of what young boys and men are wearing in 2025.

Brat

This is one of my favourite looks in the collection. The outer layer is a brown fur stole over a blue pinstripe top, exquisitely juxtaposing glamour and simplicity. The fur stole is glamorous, sexy and very Italian Mob Wife aesthetic. The trousers are simple, slim-fitting to balance the glamour of the top, and the belt adds sexy-chic without doing too much. The shoes and the bag match, which is sophisticated and fun.

Y2K red carpet

Legendary model Kate Moss closed the show in a star-studded black floor-length gown, and when she turned around, there was the famous whale tail trend that dominated the 2000s. The whale tail trend was basically about flaunting your thong in front of everyone. Kate Moss’s makeup is reminiscent of what she wore in the 2000s: that smoky look, ‘I-just-rolled-out-of-bed vibe’, and her signature boho-chic, iconic blonde hair. She was the perfect model to walk down the runway. The look was sexy, bold and glamorous.

Gucci 2026 Primavera roundup

I enjoyed the collection more than I thought I would. It was sexy, moody, edgy, and nostalgic with clear Tom Ford references throughout the collection. The music and set drew me into the show, which felt like a party. I observed a lack of diverse body shapes, especially as ‘Skinny is in’ was prevalent in the 2000s and is returning with Ozempic and skinny BBLs. In 2009, Kate Moss said, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels“, but by the 2010s, the body-positive movement was in full swing. It feels like we are going backwards rather than moving forward and welcoming a new age of cutting-edge design.

This collection also needed to be commercial, particularly given Kering’s declining sales. Only time will tell if the collection is successful. To be clear, I do not think Demna copied Tom Ford at all. I do think both designers want to spark conversation, and Demna did that for one of the most talked-about shows this season.

Image credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight.